VISIT OMIS (CROATIA) WITH ME AND LEARN ABOUT ITS PIRATE HISTORY!

Today, I'm taking you to Omiš (pronounced Omish), Croatia. In my last post, I showed you some photographs of Omis city but today we'll take a more detailed look at this stunning Croatian seaside city. I've got maps, photographs, history facts and everything you need to experience this town from the comfort of your home! This town has a fascinating pirate history! Pirates that ruled the Adriatic for two centuries. I don't know if the world has never seen pirates quite like these ones. 

Did you know that the pope Honoris the third fought a crusade war against the Omis pirates and lost? Did you know that the mighty Republics of Venice and Dubrovnik, the wealthiest city republics of their time had to pay Omis a fee for safe transport? Did you know that there were numerous attacks on Omis pirates and the town itself, but nobody succeeded in defeating them? Even the mighty Turkish Empire never conquered them. Lead by the duke Kacic and his descendants, the Omis people evaded every enemy until the time came when the sea trade wasn't as important. Once the naval superpowers were no more, it was the time for the pirates to step down from the front pages of history. With the fading of might of Venice and Dubrovnik ( two naval trading superpowers) republics, came the inevitable downfall of pirates and the sea snakes (Kacic surname comes from a word for a snake). 

In the 12th and 13th century Omiš was quite famous for its pirates whose ships were built for speedy escape into the Cetina river. Pirates sounds a bit ominous, they were also often protectors against foreign invaders. There are two sides to every story. Those were difficult times and often every town or village was for itself. In medieval times, people didn't necessarily form ties and became allies on the basis of faith or nationality.  Instead, they were loyal to the lords (nobility) under which they served.  You know one's man pirate is another man freedom fighter and all that. This area was always a crossroads between Western and Eastern imperialism, so piracy was sometimes a way of preserving one's cultural identity. Pirating was a way to financial independence that allowed your noble house to rule independently. Maybe they saw it as making the wealthy pay their taxes!

I don't judge the Omis pirates harshly, even though historically speaking, their tribe sort of used to raid my tribe. I'm originally from island Hvar and  Zadar & Split, areas that were raided by these pirates. However, I cannot help but admire the pirates cunning and bravery a little. To go against the most powerful political and financial powers of their time with so much daring is awe-inspiring. These Croatian pirates fought everyone : other Croats, the Roman pope, the republic of Venice and  Dubrovnik (basically just about anyone else who happened to come their away and tried to take their freedom away). 

VENICE AND DUBROVNIK HAD TO PAY A FEE TO OMIS PIRATES

During the height of their power, the Omis pirates spared no ships, including those from fellow Croats from the Republic of Dubrovnik. At one point in time, Dubrovnik was the wealthiest city republic in Europe. You should read their historical contracts such as marriage contacts and dowry reports (they were insane!). One of my University professors was a known scholar and an authority on history of  Dubrovnik so I had to learn a lot about it myself.  

Republic of Venice and Dubrovnik rivalled each other for position of the ultimate naval power for centuries, sometimes one city republic won, sometimes the other. Both of them had to pay a tribute to Omis pirates and their crazy fast little ships. While they raided one Croatian republic, they made friends with another- The Republic of Poljica- ruled by the same system as Dubrovnik- democratically elected 'knez'. Poljica people became one of their strongest allies.   Eventually, the Omis pirates agreed to live peacefully. Legends says that they burned their pirate ships on a great pile fire. 

A VIEW INTO THE FEROUSCIOUNESS OF THE PIRATES OF OMIS

• YEAR 1145 -  Povlja, Otok Brač -  Omiš pirates destroy the Benediction monastery built in the 9th/10th century. 
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• YEAR 1167 - Duke Nikola Kačić  signs a peace treaty with merchants from Kotor (present day Montenegro). The peace treaty was soon cancelled. 
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• YEAR 1180 - The archbishop of Split was stoned to death in a village near Omiš over dispute of the land. The order was probably given by Duke Nikola.
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• YEAR 1190 -  The noble family Kačići sign a new treaty with Dubrovnik. It gets cancelled quickly. 
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• YEAR 1200-  Komiža, island Vis - Monks of the Benedict order move their monastery in fear of the attack from the Omis pirates. 
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• YEAR 1208- The Republic of Venice signs are a treaty with Omiš pirates and promises to pay them a fee for safe transport. 
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• YEAR 1215- Kačićs were, for first time, cited for piracy  in writing. 
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• YEAR 1220-  Omiš pirates attack the papal crusaders on their way to Palestine. 
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• YEAR 1220, the Hungarian-Croatian king Andrew II threatened retaliation with the royal army against knez Malduč and his relatives unless the piracy and heresy ended.
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• YEAR 1221-  The Pope undertakes a crusade war against the pirates of Omiš. The Omiš pirates won. 
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• YEAR 1222- The pope sought help from residents of Dubrovnik against the activity of Omiš pirates.^[3] His efforts, as well as those of Guncel, Archbishop of Split, resulted in a temporary peace treaty with Kačići Omišani (Cacecli Almesiani).^[3] 
• During the same year, knez Nikola and his relatives made peace between Zachlumia and Split, agreeing to pay for damage earlier in the year when Malduš nephew Toljen ravaged Split.^[3] However, compensation for the ravages of Toljen was not paid, leading to conflict in the following year.
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• YEAR 1226- Duke Toljen Kačić  raids the areas around Split town. 
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• YEAR 1228- Pope starts another war against the Omiš pirates. This time he doesn't lose, but he doesn't win either. The pirating continues. 
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• YEAR 1228 - Omiš pirates destroy the church of saint Mary on island Brac. 
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• YEAR 1232- Venetians mentioned that Dubrovnik was not allowed to accept Kačićs and Omišani, and if Venice were to send ships against Kačićs, Dubrovnik must join the Venetians with a ship of at least 50 people.
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• YEAR 1236- Venece and Dubrovnik republics join forces against Omis pirates. 
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• YEAR 1239- Nikola of Hodimir and Pribislav of Malduč claimed bail for the Omiš pirates who murdered Dubrovnik nobleman Grubeša and looted his ship.
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• YEAR 1241- island Šolta is heavily damaged in the attack lead by Kacic nobles and Omis pirates. Many villages are destroyed. 
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• YEAR 1273- Omis pirates attack and rob the bishop  Kefalonije.
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• YEAR 1277 - Omis pirates attacked Nerežišća on island otok Brac. They burn and destroy all written records on island Brač!  
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• YEAR 1278- Omis pirates claim island Brac for themselves.
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• YEAR 1280-  Omis pirates destroy and burn the monastery  in Sućuraj on island Hvar.
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• YEAR 1294-  Omis pirates rob and raid Povlja on island Brač.
• YEAR 1331- the islanders of Hvar island accept Venetian rule in promise for protection against Omis pirates.  

What does Wiki says about Omiš? Omiš (Croatian pronunciation: [ɔ̌miːʃ], Latin and Italian: Almissa) is a town and port in the Dalmatia region of Croatia, and a municipality in the Split-Dalmatia County. The town is approximately 25 kilometres (16 miles) south-east of Croatia's second largest city, Split, where the Cetina River meets the Adriatic Sea. Omiš municipality has a population of 14,936^[3] and its area is 266 square kilometres (103 sq mi). Omiš was well known in the past by the Corsairs of Almissa (Omiški gusari)^[6] whose Sagittas (ships) (Genitive case: Sagittae, translated as The Arrow), brought fame to them because they were built for attack and fast retrieval into the mouth of the Cetina River, protecting the town from foreign invaders. At a very early date, neighbours of the Corsairs of Almissa, the highlanders of the Poljica Principality^[7] (Poljička Republika), became their friends and allies. This allowed them to harass the seaborne trade, without fear of a sudden attack from inland.

PIRATES AS TRIBUTE COLLECTORS

During the 12th and 13th centuries, Omiš pirates ruled the sea from Split to Dubrovnik. Since both Venice and Dubrovnik were a major trading force, harvesting ships in this area was very fruitful. All the ships that went through this route had to pay tribute to the mighty lords Kačić. Even the papal galleys that went into the Crusades were not spared.

The Fortresses Peovica and Fortica guarded this path and reported to pirates about the arrival of the ships. As soon as they spot the victim, Omiš Arrows, boats of very shallow beam and uncanny agility went to action. They would attack the ships and, if they did not immediately make a decisive advantage, retreated into Cetina. Source : Omiš pirates - Croatia Undiscovered - Discover wonders of Croatia

THE NOBLE KACIC FAMILY- THE LORDS OF OMIS - THEIR RISE TO POWER AND EVENTUAL FALL 

The Kačić family (Croatian: Kačići, Hungarian: Kacsics, Latin: Cacich) was one of the most influential Croatian noble families, and was one of the Croatian "twelve noble tribes" described in the Pacta conventa and Supetar Cartulary.^[1][2] Historical sources refer to members of this family as nobles in the area of the Luka županija in the Zadar-Biograd hinterland (12th–16th centuries), as the lords (knezes) of Omiš (12th and 13th centuries), and as the lords of the Makarska Riviera (15th and 16th centuries).^[1] Another prominent branch of the family, Kacsics, was part of the Hungarian nobility and from it branched many families including Szécsényi.^[1]

The first known knez of Omiš, Nikola, was mentioned, along with his relatives and everyone under his lordship, in a peace treaty with Kotor from 1167.^[20] Knez Nikola's power and independence was strong enough to have Rogerije, the Archbishop of Split, executed in 1180. Family political influence at that time included Brač and Hvar, Breueco (Brenti, Brevko, Brečko)—also of genus Kačić—as well as the previous Šibenik iupanus (župan).^[21] Archbishop Rogerije, who also served Byzantine Emperor Manuel I Komnenos as representative governor of Croatia, had become involved in a dispute about an estate around Mosor.^[22][5] A conte Nicola Aprico, who was identified in two dispute settlements of Split during 1178–79, is considered to be the same knez Nikola.^[23] In 1190, Nikola established a peace treaty with Dubrovnik. Like the 1167 treaty with Kotor, the 1190 treaty granted safe and free navigation to Dubrovnik ships from Molunat to Orebić (Trstenica).^[24]

The area of Omiš principality seems to have included the islands of Brač, Hvar and Vis, and probably at some point Korčula, but it is uncertain whether the land included coastal Poljica and Žrnovnica to the North and Makarska coast to the South.^[3][25] In the 13th century the center of the principality was Omiš, and with the title of Omiš knez (comes) the sources also mentioned the title of knez for the islands.^[3] In the 13th century the terms Kačićs (Kačići) and residents of Omiš (Omišani) are both mentioned, making it sometimes more difficult to reliably identify members of the genus.^[3] However, it seems that the princely titles were held only by the Kačićs.^[3] They achieved a large degree of independence from the central government and imposed the name of Omiš and Kačić family over the entire region.^[3][4]

In March 1244, the Holy Roman Emperor Frederick II threatened conflict with the Omišani over damage incurred along the Apulian coast.^[3] In March 1245, knez Nikola of Hodimir, with 100 Omiš citizens and knezes Pribislav, Osor, Juraj, Radoš (son of Bogdan), Slomir, and Prodan (son of Dragan), made a treaty with Dubrovnik.^[3] According to the 1245 treaty, if the king called upon the Kačićs and Omišani to help in an attack on Dubrovnik, they would respond with the least possible forces.^[3]

In 1252–54, Juraj helped Stefan Uroš I of Serbia in the war with Dubrovnik, as he was married to Stefan's daughter.^[3] In 1256, a dispute between knez Osor and the city Trogir about property in the village of Bijaći was resolved by king Béla IV and ban Stjepan.^[3] In 1258, when the king confirmed rights to the Omišani, knezes Osor and Radoš were called "kingdom noblemen".^[3] Documents from 1261-62 describe an agreement in which Dubrovnik paid blood feud to the relatives of murdered Omišani, who promised not to cause any harm to the Dubrovnik residents.^[3] In 1267–68, the Doge warned the citizens of Split about helping Omiš pirates.^[3] In 1271, the pirates looted a ship on which the Archbishop of Trani was traveling to Dubrovnik.^[3] A similar incident occurred in 1273 when pirates commanded by Stanoj and Saracen looted the ship of bishop Kefalinije Henrik.^[3]

Charles I of Naples signed an alliance with Split and Šibenik against Omiš pirates in June and September 1274.^[3] The citizens of Omiš responded by an alliance with Venice in August, in accordance with a 20-year peace treaty signed by knezes Radoš, Bogdan, Juraj and Semen. This triggered conflict on the land and sea in 1275.^[3] The activities in the intermediate years are unknown, besides that in April 1278 the islands of Hvar and Brač recognized Venetian authority, and the Omiš in 1281.^[3]

At the end of the 13th century, the Omiš branch of the Kačić family was involved in the politics of more powerful authorities.^[3] Their local hereditary oligarchy disappeared, but the Kačićs probably continued to live in the area.^[3] The war with Venice at the end of the 1270s and the beginning of the 1280s led to their loss of Omiš in favor of princes from the Šubić noble family.^[3][4] 

The Omiš Kačićs are mentioned for the last time in 1294, when the Venetians wrote to Dubrovnik residents seeking compensation from Dubrovnik authorities who had failed to send an armed ship against Omiš pirates.^[3] It is not known whether Ivan, son of Matej Kačić, mentioned in Dubrovnik 1285, was related to the Omišani Kačićs.^[3] After that, Kačićs are no longer mentioned.^[3][4]

WHAT TO SEE AND DO IN OMIS CITY? 

What makes Omiš so special?

 Is it the joining of the river Cetina that flows into the sea? 

Is it the meeting of the canyon with the sea? 

Is it its history?

Is it the historical part of the town? 

 Is it the beaches and the sea, the panorama of the islands?

 Is it the mountains that surround the town?

 Perhaps it is the combination of these factors. 

There's so much you can see and do in Omiš. If sports are your thing, then you should try rafting on river Cetina, hiking the canon and the mountains or some of the water sports available at Omiš beaches. If you are a history lover, then you can enjoy seeing the fortresses, the stone houses, palaces and churches. If you're into pirates, Omiš is simply a must visit place!

 VISIT HISTORICAL SITES AND CHURCHES

CHURCH OF ST. PETER (X. C.)

Church of St Peter on the Western bank of the Cetina, in the part of town called Priko. Due to its well-preserved condition and architectural features the Church of St. Peter (10th century) is considered to be one of the most important examples of Early Croatian Pre-Romanesque sacral architecture, and it was first mentioned in 1074, during the rule of King Slavac. 

POLJICA SQUARE (EARLY 17. C.)

The place of the main market, grain trade and fairs. It got its more appealing appearance at the beginning of the 17th century, and it was decorated in 1811 during the regulation of the river bank. A flag pole with the coat of arms of providur Molina (1961) was also used for the announcement of orders and public punishment for minor offences.

CARALIPEO HOUSE (EARLY 17. C.)

An early Baroque building, one of the first buildings built among the family houses alongside the western town wall. An example of a two-story house with elegant balconies, which were built high on the second story because of the town wall. There is a memorial plaque in the honour of Pavle Caralipeo that was erected by Ivan Matulić and Ante Benković together with fellow citizens in 1981 for his merits in regulation of river bank.

PARISH CHURCH OF ST. MICHAEL (EARLY 17. C.) WITH A BELL TOWER (EARLY 18. C.)

It combines the stylistic features of Gothic style, Renaissance and early Baroque. A lavish portal from the workshop of the Bokanić family from the island of Brač, a window rosetta, the statue of St. Michael and the coat of arms of Omiš dominate the church. The coats of arms of Venetian providurs are located above the side entrance. The new bell tower was built according to the project of the Venetian engineer Giovani Battista Camozzini. The church also contains valuable sacred works of art.

THE CHURCH OF THE HOLY SPIRIT (1585.)

It was built in the place of a Gothic church that was completely renovated in 1585. Located under the Omiš kaštel, right in the heart of the old administrative buildings of the commune (town office and the writing office, and near the providur's palace) The altarpiece ˝The Descent of the Holy Spirit˝, was painted by Jacopo Palma Junior (early 17th century).

THE CHURCH OF ST. ROCCO (16. C.)

The church of the eponymous brotherhood. Francesco Negri painted the altarpiece ˝Virgin Mary with Jesus, St. Rocco and St. Sebastian˝, with the coat of arms of the Kačić Dukes.
St. Rocco and St. Sebastian are the patron saints of plague, which threatened the town on several occasions.

THE CHURCH OF ST. EUPHEMIA (5-6. C.)

The Church of St. Euphemia (5th -6th century) - the remains of the single-nave early Christian church with a semi-circular apse and subsellium. The recently studied foundations, excavated during archaeological research in 2004, are mentioned in written sources from 1527. The church is dedicated to a Chaldecon martyr Euphemia, the patron saint of true faith.*

SOURCE: https://www.visitomis.hr/en/cultural-and-historical-heritage 18.4. 2022

BESIDES HISTORICAL CHURCH OF SAINT PETER , THERE IS ALSO  NEWER ONE

This time we visited a newer church and monastery. This one is also called saint Peter but it is not to be confused with the one from the tenth century. I'm not sure when exactly this new church was built but I managed to find out (online) that it was consecrated fourteen years ago.  I will show you both photographs taken by my husband and myself. When it comes to photography on this blog, it's a team work. Both my husband and myself enjoy taking photographs. 

a photograph of the church of Saint Paul and the bell tower

Inside of the church

My husband strolling around

....And now the pictures my husband took. An image of myself strolling around. :) What follows are some photographs that I have captured of this new church. I quite liked the contrast between the bell tower and the mountains. 

Omis is an incredibly photogenic town. The mountains, the river, the greenary, the trees, the boats and the historical sites. Everywhere you look around, there's so much beauty!

SUSTAINABLE OUTFIT FILES- HOW I WORE IT BEFORE?

THE COBALT BLUE DRESS--very old ( from New Yorker), see how I wore it here with leopard print, with a leather jacket here , with a long black coat here , here with a yellow blazer and here with .

This dress is quite short, so I usually layer it with leggings. However, here, here and here are  a summer outfit where I was brave enough to rock it on its own. 

THE BLACK FLARED LEGGINGS- worn here AND HERE.

THE SNEAKERS- worn HERE

THE BAG- worn here &here 

THE NECKLACE- first worn here

MORE SIGHTS TO SEE IN OMIS

THE MONUMENTAL FIVE-SIDED FORTIFICATION (1659.)

The monumental five-sided fortification – the baroque bastion in the south-eastern part of the town – was built in the course of the Cretan War (fought between the Venetian Republic and the Ottoman Empire from 1645 until 1669), during the service of the Provveditore Antonio Bernardo. It consisted of the Turjun Fort (Torre di terraferma) and of “The Garden Gate“, which led to the fields and gardens on the sandy peninsula of Punta.  Its strategic purpose was to deny the enemy access to the wide southern front along the moat (Italian  fossa, today’s Fošal – the main road through the town centre). 

MIRABELA AND FORTICA FORTRESS

A quick glance at the page of CROATIAN ONLINE ENCYCLOPEDIA told me more about Omiš. I didn't know that a part of medieval walls (with city doors) was preserved in its original form. On the other hand, it is to be expected. Medieval urban architecture has been preserved pretty well in Dalmatian cities. I knew about the fortress Mirabela and Fortica that the encyclopaedia mentions. I'll speak about them in more detail later on. What else does encyclopedia mention? Historical landmarks but also some newer information for example the accapella festival that has been active since the sixties. 

Nobody knows everything.  As much as I love history of my region, I'm not an expert on it. So, I try to include quotations from reputable sources in my blog posts. 

MORE INFORMATION ABOUT OMIŠ CITY LANDMARKS (TAKEN FROM THE SITE VISIT OMIŠ):

MIRABELA

Just above the roofs of the old town, as a permanent reminder of the glorious pirate history, stands one of the most famous Omiš landmarks – the fortress of Mirabela. The old pirates of Omiš used Mirabela as a lookout over the Channel of Brač, so that rich merchant ships had no way of sailing along the coast of Omiš unnoticed. The fortress itself was built in the 13th century, and, interestingly enough, its age was in fact determined based on an old Byzantine coin that some visionary pirate had obviously thrown into its foundations, making it much easier for future generations to determine the age of this important fortress and  a long-standing witness of numerous wars and battles throughout the history in which it undoubtedly played a crucial role. But although over the centuries it had managed to resist all kinds of forces of man, not even Mirabela could measure up against a force of nature. During a heavy storm in 1988, the top of the fortress was struck by lightning and the medieval fort was almost completely destroyed. Luckily, dedicated restorers gathered and reused every last peace of stone in the long process of restoring the fortress back to its original form. Mirabela stands today as one of the most popular landmarks of Omiš, attracting tourists with its  accessibility and the one of a kind view  over the entire town offered from the top of the fortress. You can reach Mirabela by a set of stairs leading up to it directly from the entrance to the Parish Church of St Michael.....

FORTICA - If you are spending more than a day in Omiš, a short climb up to the Fortica fortress is something you should by no means miss. A well-marked path leading from the very centre of town will take even the ones not exactly in top form up to the fortress in less than an hour, and once there, you’ll be richly rewarded for  your efforts  by one of the most magnificent views in all of Dalmatia. Once you set foot onto the more than 500 years old fortress, you’ll understand in an instance why the medieval inhabitants of Omiš hauled the heavy stone blocks all the way up to the top of the mountain in the first place. The one of a kind view over the islands of Brač, Hvar and Šolta, the Cetina canyon and a good portion of Poljica offered from the top of the fortress will prove itself as reason enough for such labour. Fortica was, in fact, primarily used as a lookout, and whatever the direction the enemies approached from, the watch guards would be able to spot them early enough to warn the inhabitants of Omiš of danger. This is why precisely the Fortica fortress is said to be one of the most important reasons for the town of Omiš remaining unconquered throughout its entire history. Other than as a lookaout, the medieval inhabitants of Omiš also used Fortica as a place of refuge.

SOURCE: https://www.visitomis.hr/en/cultural-and-historical-heritage 18.4. 2022

If you enjoyed this post, feel free to check my old ones, for I  blogged about  this city, not once, not twice, but four times (Omis 1 / 2 /3 /4 ).

As always, thank you for visiting and/or commenting! Take care.