VISIT SINJ (CROATIA) WITH ME! EXPLORE THE DALMATIAN HIGHLANDS!

Hello readers and fellow bloggers! Regular readers of my blog will know that I'm Dalmatian and 'parce mihi Domine,' (as St. Jerome's supposedly used to pray). Dalmatia is one of four historical Croatian regions. When we're talking about coastal regions in Croatia, there are only two: Istria and Dalmatia. Occupying the majority of Croatian seaside, Dalmatia is extremely popular with tourists. Dalmatian coast is quite long, including hundreds of islands, and running from Zadar in the north do Dubrovnik to the south.  However, there's more to Dalmatia than its seaside and islands. 

I'm from the seaside myself, a proper sea child and all,  but I love the Dalmatian Highlands. Rich in history and culture, Dalmatia Highlands are unique in many ways. From culinary delicacies to fascinating traditions, from untouched nature to picturesque towns and villages, you'll find much to admire here. Have I blogged about it before? I certainly did. I blogged about the Green Cathedral and Vrlika river near Imotski, and about Imotski town itself.  I also blogged about a historical site, a small necropolis, that is located right next to the road in Cista Provo, Dalmatian Highlands. While the most people's first association with Dalmatia is still the seaside, we're definitely seeing a rise of interest in Dalmatian Highlands. I expect this interest is only going to increase as it is an ideal place to escape the more crowdy or touristy places! If the impending third world conflict doesn't wipe us all out, it might be the next top destination.

VISIT SINJ TOWN WITH ME AND DISCOVER ITS RICH HISTORY AND TRADITIONS

Where am I taking you exactly in Dalmatian Highlands? In this post, I'll present Sinj town to you. I visited Sinj once or twice in the past, but I'll talk mostly about my most recent visit today. We visited Sinj town on 15th of August, which is a major holidays in Croatia. In the morning, we made a spontaneous decision to head for Sinj. Perhaps better to say, my husband made that decision. He really wanted to go!




ONCE I SAW THE DECORATED STREETS, I FELT THE SPIRIT OF THE SUMMER HOLIDAY

I have to be honest, I was not enthusiastic to travel on one of the hottest days of the year at all.  Somehow my husband managed to persuade me, and we went on our way, passing by some English speaking tourists in Split who were very confused about all the shops being closed. A travelling tip- If you are visiting any Catholic country on the 15th of August, count on everything being closed, as it is the day of Assumption of Virgin Mary to the Heavens, which is a major holiday. Anyway, we set on our way, and I felt like I was going to melt as we made our way to highlands. The drive from Split to Sinj is not long, and if there's no traffic, you'll be there in no time. The roads were nearly empty when we headed off, probably because nobody wanted to drive in that heat. The town was as filled with people as it to be expected on this holiday, but I guess everyone got there sooner. Once we arrived to Sinj(midday), it was almost unbearably hot. I truly felt like I was melting. However, after seeing the decorated streets, my mood improved. I could feel the spirit of this summer holiday that seems to be especially celebrated in Mediterranean countries. 




WHAT TO SEE AND DO IN SINJ TOWN? A FEW SUGGESTIONS: 

-VISIT THE CHURCH OF MIRACULOUS MADDONA AND THE SHRINE OF THE VIRGIN MARY

-VISIT THE TOWNS' MUSEUMS

-VISIT THE KAMIČAK FORT AND THE OLD CITY

- VISIT THE TOWNS' MAIN SQUARE AND THE HORSE STATUE

-VISIT THE HORSES BREED FOR A HISTORICAL KNIGHT'S TOURNAMENT 

For more information visit Sinj Tourist Board site. 

Let's talk about the horse statue that is actually a monument to an Alkar (as knights of the regions are called)!

A Monument to an Alkar*

One of the most representative symbols of Sinj, a bright sculpture of an Alkar is a work of the academic sculptor Stipe Sikirica. It was set in 1965 at the very beginning of the Alka Tournament Course (Alkarsko trkalište), called Biljeg, a place from which the Alkari start to gallop. 

* This piece of information is cited from the above mentioned site.




HISTORY OF SINJ ECHOES THROUGH ITS UNESECO PROTECTED TRADITIONS 

History of Sinj is a turbulent one. Town's traditions echo with the memories of the ancient conflicts and friendships!

A HISTORICAL WAR THAT LASTED HALF A MILENNIUM LEFT ITS MARK

Like Poland and Russia,  Croatia fought many wars with the Ottoman Empire. Many Slavic countries were at war with the Ottoman Empire at some point, but also kept diplomatic relationships with them at other times. The history between Slavic countries and the Ottoman Empire is that of both friendship and conflict.  

 Croatia fought a five hundred year war with the Ottoman Empire. That's basically a war that lasted for half a millennium. Not surprisingly, there are traces of Turkish culture to be found in Croatia. As old enemies often make good friends, Slavic people often get along well with Turkish people. Through those year of conflicts, we must have learned to respect one another. 



YOU CAN FEEL TRACES OF TURKISH CULTURE, AND EVEN CUISINE, IN SOME PARTS OF DALMATIAN HIGHLANDS

Due to the historical bonds and conflicts, you can feel some elements of Turkish culture and cuisine in Dalmatian highlands. In  dialect of Dalmatian Highlands, you can even find some borrowed Turkish words. 

IN DALMATIAN COAST YOU CAN FEEL THE ITALIAN AND SPANISH INFLUENCE, WHERAS IN THE DALMATIAN HIGHLANDS YOU CAN ALSO  FEEL THE TURKISH INFLUENCE

Europe is culturally very rich, and Dalmatia is no exception. European nations have been in contact for a long time and have all in one way or another marked each other. Dalmatia is interesting in that it was at crossroads of many 'roads'. A lot of trade went through Dalmatia, and it was one of the leading marine powers in the older days. 

In coastal Croatia, you'll often see a strong influence of the leading powers of the 16th century -the legendary Republics of Dubrovnik and Venice. The Venetian Republic certainly lefts its mark in this area.  Influence of Venetian Republic is present in all of Dalmatia, but perhaps it can be better felt at coastal part and seaside towns, whereas in Dalmatian highlands, you'll experience both the Venetian and the Ottoman influence, an unique mix of the west and the east. 





THE FAMOUS HORSE STATUE IS DEVOTED TO UNESCO PROTECTED KNIGHTS' TOURNAMENT KNOWN AS SINJSKA ALKA 

Inscribed in 2010 to  Unesco Intangible Heritage list, Sinjska Alka is a unique knights' tournament that can boast with centuries of tradition. 

A CHIVALRIC TOURNAMENT THAT HAS BEEN TAKING PLACE ONCE A YEAR SINCE SINCE THE 18TH CENTURY

This tournament, along with the historical painting of 'Our Lady of Sinj', is what the town is perhaps best known for. I will write in detail about both in this post!

ONLY PEOPLE BORN IN SINJ COUNTY ARE ABLE TO PARTICIPATE IN THE TOURNAMENT

I remember watching a special about this tournament on the TV once, with Croatian doctors expressing their concern about women who refused to go to the Split hospital (that has a new and modern maternity hospital) to give birth, because they would be worried that their sons won't be able to compete in this tournament if they are not born in Sinj. You see how important is the tradition to these people, they would rather risk their lives than risk losing a change to compete in the tournament. Of course Sinj has a hospital, but the doctors would typically sent high risk deliveries to a better equipped Split hospital. 

 I think they might have changed the law, to make the place of birth not a defying factor or something. At any rate, only local people are allowed to compete, and they train for it from early age. I don't see how someone who was not raised in this tradition could compete anywhere. Just wearing the traditional folklore costume in this heat must require years of preparation, let alone ridding a specially trained horse in a highly difficult task. You have to be trained to do it, it is as difficult as it seems. 



MORE INFORMATION ABOUT 'SINJSKA ALKA' THAT IS SINJ'S RING KNIGHT'S TOURNAMENT

Here is more information cited from Unesco.

The Sinjska Alka is a chivalric tournament that takes place annually, as it has since the 18th century, in the town of Sinj, in the Cetinska krajina region. During the contest, knights ride horses at full gallop along a main street, aiming lances at an iron ring hanging on a rope. 


The name of the tournament derives from this alka or ring, a word whose Turkish origin reflects the historical co-existence and cultural exchange between two different civilizations. The tournament rules, codified in a 1833 statute, promote ethics and fair play, and stress the importance of participation in community life. Participants must be members of local families of Sinj and the Cetinska krajina region.


 The whole community helps to make, conserve, restore and reconstruct weapons, clothes and accessories to support the continuation of the tradition. The tournament is also entwined with local religious practices, social gatherings, family visits and festivities at home and in the open air. The Sinjska Alka is the only remaining example of the medieval knightly competitions that were regularly held in the Croatian coastal towns until the nineteenth century. It has become a marker of local history and a medium for transferring collective memory from one generation to another.


ALKA DERIVES ITS NAME FOR A TURKISH WORD ' HALKA' FOR A RING

The goal of alka tournament is to hit a ring that is suspended on a cord in galloping speed. If it sounds difficult, it is because it is. There are points, and the horse riders, who are known as knights, compete for hours sometimes. There are always tons on people watching them.

The horses used in this tournament are typically either Thoroughbred or Arabian horses. All of the horses competing are breed, kept and trained for this tournament. On the day of the tournament, the horses always look mighty proud and happy. It's like they feel the anticipation themselves. I mean they probably do, horses are very intelligent animals. They have a lovely home, and are well taken care of. For those of you who want to see more, here is a site where you can see the close ups of these horses and their equipment.

ALKA IS ALWAYS BROADCASTED ON CROATIAN TV, LIKE OUR FOLKLORE  VERSION OF SUPER BOWL

This knight tournament is always broadcasted on National TV. Typically there are a lot of spectators at the site as well. Many people visit Sinj to see the tournament.

MY FIRST MEMORIES OF SINJ ARE CONNECTED TO THIS CHIVALRIC TOURNAMENT

I don't remember if I ever told you this, but as a kid I was obsessed with horses. So, my parents actually took me to see there horses when I was a kid. We went to the stables and saw all the horses kept there. They do have a lovely home! It's always a pleasure to see animals well taken of, calm and happy. 

I WATCHED THIS TOURNAMENT LIVE AS A CHILD ONCE

I only watched the tournament once live when I was little. I do see it most years on TV. What I remember best from the Sinj's Ring Knights' tournament were the horses and the riders, more precisely how well the riders took care of their horses. When they would bring them water, they always said, give it to the horse first, let the horse drink. Mind you, this happens in the middle of the summer (on the first day of August), with sky high temperatures. How they don't all just faint under those heavy folklore costumes is a mystery to me, but they certainly look very grand, happy and proud- both the horses and the riders.


THE KNIGHTS'S COURTS (DVORI ALKARA) IN SINJ ARE STUNNING!

The knights' courts weren't open, but we looked around a bit and took some photographs. I had a deja vu feeling. I think my parents took me here when I was a kid. 




LET US NOT FORGET ABOUT ART GALLERIES: SIKIRICA GALLERY IS INSIDE OF KNIGHTS COURT!

Sikirica Gallery is located inside the Alka Knights Court (Alkarski dvori). The Gallery owes its name to the famous academic sculptor Stipe Sikirica, born at Jabuka, near Trilj, who gave away his complete opus to the Town of Sinj. Sikirica is the sculptor of Sinj, the Cetinska Krajina Region and the Alka Tournament. The Town's identity is embodied in his public monuments.

Apart from the monument to an Alka contestant at the beginning of the Tournament Course (Alkarsko trkalište), Sikirica also sculptured the fountain At the spring (commonly known as Luca) and the door of the Church of the Miraculous Madonna of Sinj. The monumental door show the brief history of Sinj – the coming of the people of Sinj from Rama and the great battle of 1715 at the foot of the fortress. The protagonist of the story is the Miraculous Madonna of Sinj, whereas among many other characters the author's friends can be recognised. Sikirica’s close connection to the Alka Tournament is further witnessed by the Shield of the Alka Master (Štit velikog vojvode alkarskog), which makes part of the official Alka ceremony.

Furthermore, his golden coins are included in the numismatic collection of the Alka Knights Tournament Society. Gallery holdings comprise over five hundred Sikirica’s works (sculptures, graphics, drawings, medals). In addition to exhibiting and evaluating Sikirica’s opus, the Gallery is the organiser of a number of projects: concerts, lectures, promotions, discussions, film projections, various workshops.

It is also an active creator of cultural changes in the Town. In this sense, the Gallery is a representative of different artistic practices and new media art. It strives to be a socially responsible institution and open towards all kinds of creative expression. It cooperates with the local community as well as with other similar cultural institutions and associations in the country and abroad. One of its most important activities is the programme for the young through which unestablished artists can present their work.



The Galiotović Gallery is a branch of the Cultural Arts Center Sinj. The opening of the Galiotović Gallery took place in August of 1999. It is located in a 19th century redecorated four-storey building on the Alka Tournament Course (Alkarsko trkaište). The Gallery consists of two exhibition rooms and rooms equipped for various workshops. Apart from exhibitions, there are also lectures, promotions, concerts of classical music, etc.



MORE INFORMATION ABOUT ALKA KNIGHTS COURT

Alka Knights Court (Kvartiri)

The name of the Kvartiri (Fr. quartier – lodging, military camp) is indicative of the fort’s original purpose, that is, the barracks for the Croatian cavalry (Cavalleria croata, Croati a cavallo). It was built in 1760 as a square fort with a two-building complex. Each complex includes two square towers and two inner courtyards separated by the stables. A complex could house four companies of horsemen, together with their horses. Throughout history the fort was used by all the armies present in Sinj, particularly by the French Army in the early 19th century, and the Austrian Army. It was the time when Home Guard three-storey barracks was added to the fort.

Before the Alka Knights Court was built, compulsory protective archaeological research had been carried out in order to get a complete insight into construction and reconstruction work on the fort in the course of the 18th, 19th and 20th centuries. The architectural foundations of the south tower were found, including the water reservoir, the rainfall drainage system as well as remnants of the paving, the flooring and cobble pavements. Fragments of polished and industrial kitchen potteries, glass fragments, numerous ceramic pipes, Venetian coins and objects of metal date from the Late Middle Ages and the Modern Age.


The Alka Knights Court (Kvartiri) is cultural property under protection of the Ministry of Culture of the Republic of Croatia.




The church was actually our first stop and the reason for our visit. So, let me tell you more about this beautiful church and the historical painting it contains. 




THE CHURCH OF MIRACULOUS MADDONA DOMINATES THE TOWN MAIN SQUARE

Information cited from here

Peaceful and majestic, framed with the bronze door in relief made by the academic sculptor Stipe Sikirica, the Church of the Miraculous Madonna of Sinj dominates the town main square. Built during the 1699-1712 period, it has preserved its original appearance, though many times damaged resisting wars and earthquakes.

The Image of the Miraculous Madonna of Sinj takes the central place, both in the Church and in the hearts of the people of Sinj. It is a work of an unknown painter, dating back to the 15th or 16th century. With her head slightly tilted and eyes lowered, she has devotedly watched over her people, ever since they, driven off by the Turks, brought her along from Rama as the greatest treasure and hope to the Cetinska Krajina Region. Legend has it that in 1715 Sinj was once and for all delivered from Turkish rule with the help of her miraculous influence.





In token of gratitude, the people of Sinj crowned the Image in 1716 with a golden crown, on which there is an inscription reading IN PERPETUUM CORONATA TRIUMPHAT - ANNO MDCCXV (Triumph in eternal coronation – the year of 1715). The Image is nowadays silver-framed, with a relief of Sinj fortress on the back (by the sculptor Ante Jakić), adorned with votive offerings of worshippers.


In addition to the Madonna’s altar, in the Church there are altars of St Joseph, St Francis, St Anthony, St Nicholas Tavelić and St Paulin.

A stone altar, the work of the academic sculptor Kuzma Kovačić, stands out in the presbytery, as well as stained-glass windows made by the academic sculptor Anton Vrlić. Above the entrance door, there are stained-glass windows showing Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary and the images of Father Pavao Vučković and St Nicholas Tavelić. The side walls of the nave show the works of the academic painter Ivan Grgat, these being the images of evangelists, Blessed Alojzije Stepinac and Venerable Ante Antić. Behind the main altar, there are a mosaic and a stained-glass window showing the crowning of the Blessed Virgin Mary and Christ on the cross, the work of the academic painter Josip Botteri Dini.

In the inner church courtyard, there is a bronze relief by Kuzma Kovačić, showing the Image of the Madonna of Sinj crowned with twelve stars. The relief is the same as the detail on the door of the Franciscan church at Šćit in Rama.

The today’s church tower, which consists of four new bells and is 43.5 metres in height, was completed in 1927. It was built in the place of the old tower, dating from 1775, which was made out of muljika, the domestic stone. In 1958, new organs, made by the Franc Jenko firm from Ljubljana, were consecrated. The Church itself was consecrated on the Assumption holiday in 2009, together with the new altar and the Madonna’s statue placed in the monastery courtyard, made by the academic sculptor Josip Marinović. Both the Church and the Franciscan Monastery are included in the Register of Cultural Property of the Ministry of Culture of the Republic of Croatia as a part of the sacral architectural heritage under protection.







THE SHRINE (SANCTUARY) OF THE MIRACULOUS LADY OF SINJ IS KNOWN FOR A BEAUTIFUL HISTORICAL PAINTING THAT IS BELIEVED TO BE HAVE SPECIAL POWERS

The shrine of the Virgin of Sinj is among the largest in Croatia. For many years, countless individuals have displayed strong loyalty to the lovely portrait of the Mother of Mercy, believed to have been created in the late 16th  century. The shrine at Sinj is held in high esteem. The strong unity between the local Catholic community and the traditional worship of Virgin Mary adds to the shine's lasting popularity.


AN ARTISTIC GEM OF CETINA COUNTY - A 16TH CENTURY PAINTING PAINTED BY AN UNKNOWN VENETIAN ARTIST


OUR LADY OF SINJ- A STUNNING PAINTING, ORIGINALLY PAINTED ON CANVAS AND LATER CROWNED WITH GOLD AND DECORATED WITH SILVER

Undoubtedly, the Miraculous Painting of the Blessed Virgin Mary of Mercy, known as 'Our Lady of Sinj' is one of the symbols of Sinj town.  Measuring 58x44 cm and created by an anonymous artist in the XVI. century, it is considered the most exquisite jewels of Sinj and Cetina County, as well as one of the most stunning artworks in Christian art. 

It is believed that the 'Our Lady of Sinj' painting was originally situated in Sinj. Although, this fact was never confirmed, the local legends and traditions certainly speak in its favour. What is known is that the painting (supposedly first located in Sinj) found itself at Rama (Bosnia and Herzegovina) at some point. 

It is assumed that the painting was moved from Sinj due to turbulent history of history. The way the story goes is that it was  relocated after Sinj town was captured by the Turks in 1536.  It is believed that the friars relocated the painting to Rama, where it stayed until 1687. What we do know is that the painting was located in Rama in the seventieth century. However, history being turbulent, the friars had to make another escape and took the painting with them. In 1687, the friars, along with their flock, fled from the Turkish invasion to Cetina County and the sea, taking their most precious treasure with them. They paused briefly in Dugopolje, Klis, and Split before ultimately returning the painting to Sinj in 1691.

That is the story of how the sacred artwork sheltered Sinj and has never been removed since. Following the well-known triumph in 1715, achieved with the help of Madonna's intervention, the Sinj army's military leaders gathered 80 gold coins as a gesture of gratitude and had a gold crown with a cross created to adorn the Miracle Painting. The painting was inaugurated on September 22nd, 1716 and was relocated to a new church in 1721, where it remains to this day.



THE PAINTING OF MIRACULOUS MADDONA OF SINJ - A PAINTING WITH AN INTERESTING HISTORY

I'm going to write a bit more about 'Our Lady of Sinj' painting and my own experience of seeing it.


A FAMOUS PAINTING OF VIRGIN LADY 


There is a whole story behind this painting. Even without all that, it's just a mesmerizing work of art. 
 It's one of the most famous paintings in Croatia, if not the most famous ones. Seeing it in person was such a powerful experience. The church itself is quite majestic, but the painting has an aura that is so powerful. Of course this painting is significant for many reasons, but even just on its own, it's something truly special. 


I WAS AMAZED BY THIS PAINTING AND THE ARTISTIC VALUE IT POSSESES

Religion, tradition and all that aside, I was amazed by this painting. I've been surrounded by reproductions of it all my life, so I thought I was familiar with it. 

However, when I stood in front of it- I felt like I was seeing it for the first time. I was simply amazed by its beauty. Somehow I never realized it how beautiful it is- as a work of art. Of course, it's historically and theologically a significant painting, but artistically- it's really on another level. 

The painting looks almost 3D. The effect of the silver framing makis this effect even more prominent. It feels as if the oil painting was somehow summoned and materialized within the silver and gold. I don't know how else to describe it. There's a special effect to it. Is it it contrast between the precious metal that surround the painting, and the softness of the actual portrait itself. 

The skin of the Virgin Mary looks so real and so fresh. The skill of the old masters is truly captured there. Who ever was the painter who painted it, had a magical touch. The face of the Virgin Mary appears both lively and mystical, both gentle and powerful. 

SOMETIMES IT TAKES SEEING A PAINTING LIVE TO REALLY EXPERIENCE IT


YOU CAN SEE A BANNER WITH A REPRODUCTION OF THIS PAINTING PRINTED ON IT

If you glance above, you can see a banner with this painting. A lot of homes in Croatia have a reproduction of this painting. I guess it has become a sort of a national religious painting. However, the reproductions convey nothing of its beauty. For that, you really have to go and see the original with your own eyes. 

I do art myself, and I visit museums often. I love looking at art and I love admiring it. It's something I do fairly often. However, I can definitely count the experience of seeing this painting as something that stands out from my regular admiration of art.  

For me seeing this painting in person was truly a powerful experience. I had no idea how truly beautiful the painting was. Even without the back story, I can see how such a majestic painting could inspire so much worship. 

What was it that so moved me? Of course, there's the whole cultural and historical thing. But even more than that, it was the painting itself. I don't know how else to describe it!


Let's get back to the subject of places worthy of a visit. There are many of them, but I'll share those that I think the most impressive. For a history lover, old town is always the first place to visit in any time right. Does Sinj have an old town? It does, and it's basically an old fortress you can climb to. 


OLD TOWN IS DEFINITELY WORTHY OF A VISIT!

While we didn't visit it ourself, the old town is definitely worthy of a visit.

You can read more information (cited from Official Tourist Site) under:

Remnants of the old fortress, that the people of Sinj simply call the Town, have been faithful to watch over Sinj even today, after the passage of centuries. It harboured the people and soldiers during Turkish invasions, guarded and protected the weak, resisted invaders. In the centre of the fortress there was St Michael’s church in which, on the altar of St Barbara, the Franciscans from Rama laid the precious and miraculous image of the Mother of Mercy. In 1699, through the advocacy of Father Pavao Vučković, in the town at the foot of the old fortress the building of St Mary’s church began. The church was completed in 1712.


There is little left of the fortress itself. After 1709, 1768 and 1796 earthquakes and repeated barbarian invasions, the old fortified walls of Sinj yielded so the people began to settle in Podvaroš, at the foot of the hill. A small church, which is nowadays at the Town, was built in 1887, in commemoration of two centuries of arrival of the people of Cetina from Rama. It is a symbol of a vow, a close alliance and devotion which have for centuries bound the Cetina people to the Mother of God. In 2008, in honour of their eternal heavenly patroness, the people of Sinj built at the Town a bronze statue of the Madonna of Sinj, the work of the academic sculptor Josip Marinović.

From the foothill to the votive church at the Old Town the Way of the Cross is built. Stations were sculptured by the most prominent Croatian sculptors.

Complete restoration of the fortress walls has been planned to finish up until 2015, with a great celebration of the tercentenary of the defence of Sinj. The Old Town Fortress and the cemetery have been under protection of the Ministry of Culture of the Republic of Croatia.




If you love stone architecture, you'll love Sinj. Like most Dalmatian towns, it is filled with stone buildings and houses. Everywhere you turn, you'll see beautiful stone architecture. 

I STOPPED FOR REFRESHMENT ON ONE OF TOWN'S FONTAINTS


The day was incredibly hot as I explained, so when we came across a fountain, I used that opportunity to refresh myself, i.e splash some water over myself. While doing that, I enjoyed a moment of piece in the shade that allowed me to admire the surrounding beautiful stone buildings (some of which are open for public).

OTHER SITES IN SINJ-A TOMB OF A SEVEN-YEAR-OLD ROMAN BOY WHO USED TO PLAY FOOTBALL

What other sites can you see in Sinj? 

Gaius Laberius

A tombstone of a seven-year-old Roman boy Gaius Laberius holding a ball with hexagons joined in the manner of a net-like ornament. The symbol of a real leather ball, it is considered firm evidence that football in Europe was first played in the Cetinska Krajina Region. It was found in the Tilurium site, in the locality of Gardun, and dates back to the 2nd century.

Today the tombstone is built into the front wall of the Perković family-owned stone building in Vrlička ulica at number 10 in Sinj. Made of limestone, the monument is 113 centimetres high and 46 centimetres wide. At the bottom there is a two-part inscription, the first part of the inscription being in a well-defined frame and informing about Gaius Laberius, whereas the second part is an inscription by an unkonown author dedicated to the boy. The central part is a round medallion framed with ornaments, bearing a portrait of the boy who holds the ball in his right hand. At the top of the monument there is a frieze showing a kantharos (a large two-handle vase), a dolphin and the head of Medusa (in ancient mythology, the personification of evil) and a triangular gable with acroteria (plastic ornaments of tops and corners) in the shape of lion’s paws.

The head of Atis is sculptured in the triangular gable. Even though football was played at Gardun among Roman soldiers and sons of the rich, originally the game was Illyrian and the Delmates had played it long before the Roman troops arrived. This is further proven by the fact that in no locality other than Gardun throughout the historical Roman Empire, a football-related pattern or image has been found. In 1969, the international football association (FIFA) dedicated a cover of its official journal FIFA NEWS (issue 71), headlined Archaeology and football, to the archaeological discovery of the amateur archaeologist Josip Bepo Britvić. According to the FIFA, this discovery is a piece of information significant for both archaeology and football fans. Delmates VS Romans match.

OTHER SITES TO SEE AT SINJ- At the Spring

The first public sculpture by Stipe Sikirica (1957), the statue of a girl drinking water from the spring. The people of Sinj call it Luca. The statue is placed in a green space in the town centre, near the Church of the Miraculous Madonna of Sinj.


OTHER SITES TO SEE AT SINJ- THE PIAZZA FOUNTAIN

The piazza fountain (popularly known as funtana) was raised by Mayor Antonio Buglian in 1852. A year later the piazza was paved, and street lamps (ferali), the iron lamp-posts, were also placed there.


OTHER PLACES TO VISIT - TRIPALO VILLA AND VJERA VILLA

TRIPALO VILLA

It was raised in southern Sinj in 1920 in Art Nouveau style. The entire property is surrounded by a stone wall. In the north-east part of the villa there is the entrance gate with forged doorframes, dating back to the time when the building was under construction. Although raised in the town, it is a country-style building and is quite exceptional in Sinj, but also in greater Dalmatia. The Tripalo Villa is immovable cultural property under protection of the Ministry of Culture of the Republic of Croatia.

VJERA VILLA- IS LOCATED NEAR THE FOUNTAIN. I actually spotted this villa, and after reading the board identifying it as a town's tax office, I felt a bit disappointed. It's way too beautiful to be a tax office. It should be turned into a museum or something that like. Anyhow, this is what I managed to find on this Villa on the Sinj town official site.

It bears the name of the owner. The house was bought by the Tripalo family from the then landowner and lawyer Ramagnolo, for their daughter Vjera on the occasion of her marriage. Sinj Tax Administration office is at present located in the restored villa.


FINALLY, THE FOUNTAIN ITSELF IS ALSO A SIGHT TO SEE!

IT IS LISTED AMONG 'OTHER SITES TO SEE' ON THE TOWN SINJ OFFICIAL SITE. 


Here is what I found about it: 

Petrovac Fountain

The fountain, placed in front of the building of Sinj Municipal Court, was raised by Mayor Petar Tripalo in 1878, and it bears his name. It is supplied with water from the Miletin spring, located in the south-west of the old fortress of Sinj.

So, that is what this pretty stone building behind me was- a Municipal Court. I wondered what it could be, and now I know. I love doing research about the places I visit!







Next to fountain there is a museum. What museums should you visit in Sinj? According to the Tourist Board, there are a few of them: 


1) Museum of the Cetinska Krajina Region


Founded in 1956, it represents the central place of both research and exhibition of splendid cultural and historical heritage of the Cetinska Krajina Region. The Museum includes the following collections: archaeological, numismatic, cultural-historical, ethnographic and natural-science collection, but also the collection of arms, orders, medals and medallions, photographs and photographic equipment, documents, postcards and posters as well as an art collection in which artists from the Cetinska Krajina Region are included for the most part.

Stone monuments of various styles are exhibited in the open-air collection of stone monuments and on the ground floor of the Museum. Splendidly architectural-ornamented ancient monuments are of particular significance, as well as altars dedicated to Roman gods and Ruduša tombstones dating back to the 1st century. The tombstones are valuable because of Illyrian names and special ornaments inscribed on them. The most important figure sculptures are the statues of Roman goddesses Roma and Fortuna from Čitluk (ant. Aequum). The permanently displayed archaeological collection is presented in chronological order, from Prehistory through Ancient History to the Middle Ages whereas the exhibits are accompanied by reviewed texts, legends, maps, drawings and photographs.

Prehistoric exhibits include the stone, ceramic and bone finds from the Cetina Riverbed. The Palaeolithic is exhibited by a particular hand wedge made of stone, found in the Cetina Riverbed in the village of Han, whereas the Neolithic is presented by ceramic pottery fragments and by polished stone arms and tools. In the Eneolithic period we can find copper wedge-shaped and stone hammer-axes. There are further ornamented ceramic pottery fragments from karst valleys in the village of Otišić. Ceramic pottery, triangular daggers and knives, which belong to a specific prehistoric cultural group – the Cetina culture (the Eneolithic and the Bronze Age, 2250 B.C. – 1600 B.C.), were found in grave-mounds from lake-dwelling settlements at Dugiš near the village of Otok. The Late Bronze Age exhibits include bronze arms and tools samples, ceramic pottery and jewellery. Greek-Illyrian helmets and greaves, spears and knives belong to the Iron Age.

Exhibits from different sites in the Cetinska Krajina Region stand for the Ancient Age: figuratively ornamented oil-lamps, amphorae, clay tiles, various jewellery, etc. Two marble heads stand out for their dressing quality– Empress Herennia Etruscilla, the wife of Roman Emperor Traianus Decius, and a diadem-crowned goddess’s head.

Numerous grave goods found in Early Croatian graves in the villages of Bajagić, Jasensko, Lučane and Jabuka as well as the finds from the bed of the Cetina River witness the Early Middle Ages. The grave finds, especially bronze jewellery and arms, serve as exhibits dating back to the High Middle Ages. The museum material has been under protection of the Ministry of Culture of the Republic of Croatia.


2) Archaeological Collection of the Sinj Franciscan Monastery

The archaeological collection of Sinj Franciscan monastery is considered to be one of the oldest and most valuable collections in Croatia. It was founded in 1860 by diligent and ardent Father Ante Konstantin Matas, a great humanist and reformer, the headmaster of the Franciscan Grammar School in Sinj. The Collection’s foundation was prompted by the find of the head of Heracles at Čitluk, ant. Aequum, an exceptionally rich archaeological site.

The Collection mostly comprises the finds from Sinj environs. Apart from the head of Heracles, the Collection includes a number of valuable exhibits, such as the lower half of an emperor's statue, probably the one of Emperor Claudius I, since it was him who granted Aequum the status of colony and its inhabitants the status of Roman citizens, as witnessed by Čitluk Latin name, Colonia Claudia Aequum. Moreover, there are other valuable exhibits: the statue of goddess Diana Lucifera, 172 cm in height including the pedestal, numerous epitaphs and memorial inscriptions, altar, remnants of the statue of goddess Diana from Gardun, the Medusa relief, the Diana and Bacchus relief, Roman clay pottery, Roman sestertii, the extraordinary statue of goddess Hecate, a large marble inscription M. VALERIVS.F..., three epitaphs of members of the NAEVIVS (NAEVIENUS) family, who made notable officers in Aequum, the DIIS MANIBUS altar.

The Collection preserves the prehistoric finds, such as bronze objects from Kaljic and fragments of ceramic pottery, stone knives and arrows. The ethnographic collection includes objects associated with the folk life and customs of Sinj. Folk costumes, which have preserved the original colour due to the conditions in which they have been kept, stand out in the ethnographic collection. The church collection comprises liturgical objects made of silver, among which the most representative are the ones from Gothic period whereas the most of them date back to the Baroque. Furthermore, there are valuable Baroque paintings as well as the vestment from the 17th and 18th centuries.

The archaeological collection further includes a valuable numismatic collection of sample coins – early Greek, Roman (from the Imperial and the Republican age), Byzantine, Venetian, Bosnian, Turkish and coins of Dubrovnik. Other valuable coins include 14 silver denarii from Sisak (of Emperors Diocletian, Maximilian and Constantius I) and the collection of Split coins, bagatini, (13th c.–14th c.), found in 1962 at Trilj near Sinj. In the last twenty years, the collection has been enriched by golden and silver jubilee coins from all over the world. Besides that, of great importance are the ancient glass samples as well as a large number of prehistoric objects. The Archaeological Collection of the Franciscan Monastery is cultural property under protection of the Ministry of Culture of the Republic of Croatia.



3) Museum Alka of Sinj

In dawn of its 300th anniversary, the pride of Croatian tradition and long-lasting cultural historical heritage has finally been given a home in which it can display itself in its full glory. In the heart of Alka halls, in place of the old Venetian republic's Kvartiri – which were the barracks for the Croatian cavalry – now sits a magnificent collection of the Museum of the Sinjska Alka. Between the Petrovac fountain in the south and the Duke's quarters in the north lies a building complex that satisfies even the highest of museum standards. It comprehensively ties the past and the present, and in its priceless value keeps the Alka identity, securing the future for generations to come.

Each visitor will be able to experience the greatness of Alka all year round, culminating in August: from the lavishly decorated original alkars' and alkar's squiers' uniforms, valuable equipment and weaponry, 300-year-old historical objects, to a special attraction – a life-sized display of the Alka procession.

Since the connection between the historical and the contemporary is always present in Sinj in a unique way, one can experience the famous Battle of 1715 in a multimedia environment, as well as browse old Alka statues and ruel books. It is also possible to view a documentary film within the permanent collection, dealing with the history of Alka, which gives a new dimension to the experience of the knightly competitions such as oko sokolovo and čvrsta desnica.

Museum of the Sinjska Alka is a place where everybody – including natives and tourists, young and old – will find something interesting and surely be inspired by a uniques gem of Croatian and global intangible cultural heritage, the value of which is even protected by UNESCO.

A cultural, scientific and a pedagogical-educative institution are united in a unique, professionally designed space, representing, keeping and protecting rich archives.

...and that would be all for today. I hope you've enjoyed learning more about Sinj town. 


Thank you for reading and visiting! 





Comments


  1. You live in a wonderful place. You have so much art and culture and a fantastic landscape.
    Great photos.
    I wish you a very nice Sunday

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  2. What a great places, thanks for your sharing

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  3. I know about the famous Sinj Alkars, descendants of famous ancestors who fought against the Ottomans. I think that the entire Croatian people fought for centuries against the Turks and against Islamization, in fact, they defended the whole of Europe from their invasion to the west. Croatia was called and considered the bulwark of Christianity and Croatian courage and the art of warfare are known in the world, at least to historians, professional military circles and amateurs like me :) The fight of the Croats against the Turks saved Europe! Unfortunately, the price of five centuries of fighting against the Turks left a huge mark in the loss of population, and I know that one part, in order to save their lives and get privileges - converted to Islam, and now they are called Bosniaks in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Sinj is beautiful, history, nature and people are calling me to visit it. Of course I will try to see the statue of the "Miracle of Our Lady of Sinj"... Your pictures are also phenomenal. Thank you for the fantastic post dear Ivana 👏🫶

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  4. So fascinating about football, a lot of Brits are under the misguided opinion that we invented it! And how interesting about women being reluctant to give birth in that hospital in case it affected their son's claim of nationality!
    You look very cute in your outfit! xxx

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    1. I found the information that football was invented by the British in the English textbooks I teach from...but from what I understood by reading other sources, the game actually predates ancient Romans, and was played by Illyrian tribes. Some sources claim that football was invented in China during the Han dynasty!

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  5. A wonderful place, full of tourist attractions! For me, August 15 is also a day off, also the feast of Our Lady of the Herbs, but the weather is variable, sometimes you can already feel the breath of autumn, a bit of chill.
    You look beautiful, have a good week!

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    1. Yes, it's a lovely place. Thank you! Here the 15th of August is almost unbearably hot.

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  6. Wow, such stunning photos and the wonderful history of the place you presented. Thank you so much! Great to know of all this place has to offer and what it's been through in the ages. Fab photos of you too. Thanks so much!

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  7. So great to see you there, and to write about the past. Such wonderful moments! Such a beautiful place to visit! Awesome!

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  8. Thank you for taking us to the Dalmatian Highlands and Sinj town in particular. What an amazing and fascinating town full of history and culture. That's really my kind of place. I'm glad your husband persuaded you to travel there, even if it was on the hottest day of the year. We celebrate Assumption Day here in Belgium as well, and everything is closed here too! xxx

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    1. The highlands are fascinating. I'm always learning more about them. Even if I'm from the same region, the highlands are many ways unique, so I have a lot to learn myself.

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  9. Ay como me gustaría conocer *-* muy bonito post.

    Un beso desde Plegarias en la Noche

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  10. Tu pais es bello. Me gustaría conocerlo. Te mando un beso.

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  11. I really enjoyed learning about the history of Sinj. Despite the heat, it was well worth the trip to discover the history, religion and traditions of Sinj. I made the comparison with Portugal and Spain, we also fought each other for centuries and today we have mutual respect and I can say that the Portuguese are very fond of the Spanish and vice versa!
    Here in Portugal 15 August is also a religious holiday, Our Lady of the Conception, the patron saint of Portugal.
    I really like that sculpture of the knight! And the painting too, a treasure!
    As for your look, it's perfect for a hot day!

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    Replies
    1. Thank you Marisa.
      I'm sure there are many fascinating things to discover in Portugal, a country so rich in culture and history.

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