Sights to see, Places to visit / Znamenitosti za vidjeti, mjesta za posjetiti (Mogorjelo)

Last month when I took you to this little city (here) in Herzegovina, I told you that it was actually founded by the ancient Romans. Didn't I also mention that there are interesting ruins  and archeological sights near by? I'm pretty sure I did! Today I'm taking you to one of them. Welcome to Mogorjelo!

Prošlog mjeseca kada sam vas povela u ovaj mali grad u Hercegivini (ovdje), rekla sam vam da su ga zapravo osnovali stari Rimljani.  Zar nisam također i spomenula da u blizini ima zanimljivih ruševina i arheoloških spomenika? Naravno da jesam! Danas vas vodim na jedno takvo mjesto. Dobrodošli u Mogorjelo!



As it happens, we decided to make a stop here almost accidentally. We had some things to take care of in vicinity and when we were done my husband in a spur of the moment decided we should see this place. As soon as I step foot here I was enchanted.  I literally felt like I stepped centuries back in time.  This location was so beautiful; it left me speechless for a few moments. To be quite frank, I had no idea what exactly this place was. However, this actually made this whole experience even more interesting because it started an interesting debate between me and my husband. Obviously, you can tell right away that these ruins are ancient Roman in origin but what were they exactly? Our options were divided for once.

Zapravo smo ovdje stali sasvim slučajno, morali smo nešto obaviti u blizini i jesmo, kad je odjednom mome mužu palo na pamet da bi trebalo vidjeti ovo mjesto. Čim sam tu stupila nogom bila sam očarana. Doslovno sam se osjećala kao da sam zakoračila stoljećima natrag u vremenu. Mjesto je toliko lijepo da sam par trenutaka bila doslovno bez riječi. Da budem posve iskrena, nisam imala pojma što je točno ovo mjesto bilo.  No, zbog toga mi je cijelo iskustvo bilo i zanimljivije jer je to izazvalo zanimljivo debatu između mene i muža.  Očito je odmah vidljivo da su u pitanju ruševine iz rimskog perioda, ali ruševine čega? Naša mišljenja su ovaj put bila podijeljena.




I'm not sure have I ever mentioned this before, but both of us are history lovers. In addition, both of us are really interested in both modern and ancient architecture. Not surprisingly, we found this archaeological site immensely interesting. As we were walking and soaking the sun on that gloriously sunny day, we started to examine it. ‘This was a canal’, we both agreed. ‘This was a wealth and these chambers served as’.....All of a sudden, we came to a disagreement. I said that the chambers were obviously made for servants and farm worker meaning that this archaeological site was quite clearly villa rustica. He said I was wrong, that the chambers we were examined were made for soldiers. He was sure this place belonged to ancient Roman military. He argued his case and I argued mine. He was sure that it was a military camp or fortes and I was sure that it was a villa rustica.  Who was right?

Nisam sigurna jesam li ovo prije spomenula, ali i ja i muž volimo povijest, a uz to zanima nas jako i arhitektura, kako moderna tako i drevna. Nije stoga nikakvo iznenađenje da nam je ovo arheološko nalazište bilo veoma zanimljivo. Dok smo hodali i upijali sunce toga divno sunčanoga dana, počeli smo ga proučavati...Ovo je bio kanal , složili smo se, a ovo je bio bunar....To su bile sobe za...odjednom su se naša mišljenja razišla. Ja sam rekla da su sobe očito pravljenje za poslugu i za zemljoradnike pa da se radi o rimskoj ladanjskoj vili, za koju se u hrvatskom ispravno rabi i latinski naziv villa rustica. On je rekao da sam u krivu i da je očito da su te sobe rađene za vojnike. Bio je siguran da je ovo mjesto pripadala rimskoj vojsci. On je zagovarao svoje argumente, a ja svoje. Bio je siguran da se radi o vojnoj utvrdi ili kampu, a ja sam bila sigurna da se radi o ladanjskoj vili. Tko je bio u pravu?








Who was right? Well, to my great surprise I discovered we were both right. After we returned home and I did some research, I discovered that Mogorjelo was both. What are the odds? You may be wondering how this is possible, but don't worry, I will explain everything. You see, originally this really was villa rustica, but after it was damaged by a fire, it was turned into a Roman military camp and fortress.  Isn't that fascinating?

Tko je bio u pravu? Na moje veliko iznenađenje, ispalo je da smo oboje u pravu. Nakon što smo se vratili kući i nakon što sam malo istraživala, otkrila sam da je Mogorjelo bilo i jedno i drugo. Kakve su šanse za to? Možete se pitati kako je to moguće, ali bez brige, sve ću objasniti. Vidite, u nastanku ovo je doista bila villa rustica, ali nakon što je oštećena u požaru, pretvorena je u rimsku vojnu utvrdu i kamp. Zar to nije zanimljivo?




So, now you know. Mogorjelo is an unique archaeological monument, a well preserved ancient Roman villa rustica dating back to the first centuryIf you're not familiar with this term villa rustica, I will explain. It basically means an ancient Roman house that is set in the countryside. Besides being the home to whatever wealthy Roman family owned it, villa rustica was also a farm managing centre. Meaning it was also used to store agricultural tools and goods, live stock, farm animals and so on. It was also a place where the workers on the farm lived but separately from the landowning family.  Often in English, the term villa rustica is mistakenly used to denote any kind of Roman villa i.e an ancient roman home.  There are clearly significant differences between urban and country ancient Roman homes because as I have explained, the country houses had additional agricultural management purpose.

Sada znate. Mogorjelo je jedinstveni arheološki spomenik, dobro očuvana rimska ladanjska vila koja potječe iz prvog stoljeća. Između gradskih i ladanjskih staro rimskih vila postoje znatne razlike, zato jer su ladanjske vile osim što su bile dom nekoj bogatoj obitelji, također i bile mjesta na kojima se upravljalo određenim zemljištem pa su stoga tu živjeli radnici koji su obrađivali zemlju, te su se tu držali poljoprivredni proizvodi i alati, a naravno i pripadajuće domaće životinje i blago. 







It is assumed that this villa rustica was burned down in a fire in the fourth century. Whether this fire was accidental or not, it is not known. What we do know for sure is that on its foundation, a Roman fortress was build. Its dimensions were 102 x 83 meters. In the middle of the fortress there was a two store palace where the owner lived.  Most of the elements from the first century villa rustica were preserved (furnace for example) and incorporated into the structure of the fortress. At end of the fourth century, this fortress was taken and partly destroyed by a nomadic Goth tribe. In the fifth century, two early Christian churches were constructed here using the fortress wall as its foundation. As far as I know, these were not preserved. During the middle ages, dead used to be buried on this location (I'm assuming it had something to do with the vicinity of those early churches). 


Pretpostavlja se da je ova ladanjska vila izgorjela u požaru u četvrtom stoljeću. Je li taj požar bio namjeran ili slučajan, nije nam znano. Ono što je poznato je da su na njenim temeljima, Rimljani izgradili svoju utvrdu. Njene su dimenzije bile 102 puta 83 metra, a u sredini se nalazila palača na dva kata gdje je živio vlasnik. Većina elemenata iz ladanjske vile (npr. peć) je sačuvana i uklopljena u strukturu utvrde. Na kraju četvrtog stoljeća, nomadsko pleme Gota je osvojilo i djelomično uništilo utvrdu. U petom stoljeću, tu su sagrađene dvije rane kršćanske crkve koje su se u izgradnji koristile   zidom utvrde kao osloncem. Koliko mi je poznato, iste nisu sačuvane. Tijekom srednjem vijeka na ovom su se lokalitetu vršili ukopi pokojnika (pretpostavljam zbog blizine tih ranih crkvi).





To understand the significance of Mogorjelo, we must take into account its vicinity to Narona. As I have explained, Mogorjelo is located in the vicinity of a charming little town Čapljina in Bosnia and Herzegovina. It is quite close to the border with Croatia. Narona was founded in the fourth century B.C by the ancient Greeks and for centuries it had been a very important city. Originally an ancient Greek town, it became not only an ancient Roman city, but also a Roman municipality and a colony (conventus civium Romanorum, Colonia Iulia Narona) with all its entitled rights. Narona is situated in present day Croatia, in village Vid near Metković city. It is possible to assume that this fortress was build to protect that profoundly important town.

Kako bismo razumjeli značaj Mogorjela, moralo uzeti u obzir njenu blizinu Naroni. Kao što sam objasnila Mogorjelo se nalazi blizu dražesnog gradića Čapljine u Bosni i Hercegovini i blizu je granice s Hrvatskom. Naronu su u četvrtom stoljeću prije Krista osnovali stari Grci, a kasnije je postala ne samo rimski grad, već i općina i kolonija (conventus civium Romanorum, Colonia Iulia Narona)  s svim pripadajućim pravima. Narona je smještena u današnjoj Hrvatskoj, u selu Vid blizu Metkovića. Moguće je pretpostaviti da je ova tvrđava izgrađena kako bi štitila taj veoma znajačan grad.








Now, when I look back at our debate, I see both of our instincts were right. I was right to assume this could have been villa rustica. Little details, for example hand carved stones decorated with wine leaves lead me to believe it was so. In my native Dalmatia, I saw many such decorations. Vinegars still surround this area. The agricultural potential is clearly visible if you look around. There is even a riding club right next to this site, probably where actual stables were in the actual Roman times. If you want, you can rent a horse and go for a ride. They even have ponies for children, but I will speak about that some other time. Now, I will just make an observation. It is possible that two people can see a part of the same truth and both be partially correct. Wouldn't it be better if we were all open minded and willing to admit that our experience can give us only a glimpse of truth? There is always a story within a story.

Sada, kad se prisjetim naša debate, vidim da smo oboje imali dobre instinkte. Dobro sam pretpostavila da bi ovo mogla biti villa rustica. Mali detalji, kao ručno klesani  ukrasi u kamenu u obliku vinove loze su me naveli na taj zaključak. U svojoj rodnoj Dalmaciji vidjela sam puno takvih ukrasa iz rimskog razdoblja. Vinogradi još okružuju ovaj prostor. Poljoprivredne mogućnosti su očite. Postoji čak i jahački klub odmah pored, vjerojatno  se staje nalaze baš na istom mjestu kao i u vrijeme starih Rimljana. Ukoliko želite, možete iznajmiti konja za jahanje, a imaju i ponije za djecu, ali za tome više drugi put. Sada bih samo još nešto primijetila. Moguće je da dvoje ljudi vidi dio iste istine i da oboje budu djelomično u pravu. Zar ne bi bilo bolje da smo svi otvoreniji i spremniji prihvatiti kako nam naše iskustvo pokazuje samo dio istine? Uvijek postoji priča unutar priče.










For me it is always a very humbling feeling visiting any historical sight. When you see structures that have stood the test of time for so long, it makes you wonder whether as society we are as advanced as we would like to be. It is remarkable how little things really change with time. Every time period has its challenges, its advantages and disadvantages.

Posjećivanje bilo kojeg povijesnog mjesta može nam pomoći staviti stvari u pravu perspektivu. Kada vidite građevine koje su izdržale test vremena, onda se zapitate koliko smo kao društvo zapravo napredni i jesmo li napredni kao što to volimo misliti. Nevjerojatno je kako se stvari malo mijenjaju s vremenom. Svaki vremenski period ima svoje izazove, prednosti i nedostatke. 





So many stories, so much history...all of these can be found in Mogorjelo. First a home to a Roman land owning family and both a place of work and a home for servants and land workers. What were they thoughts? How was their life? Probably it was similar to ours. They fell in love, got married, tried to make a living and raise a family.....so many people lived here in centuries to come: servants, nobleman, soldiers, priests and even nomad Goths (for a short time). Finally, during the middle ages it was the last resting place for many. What it is like today? It is a very serene place but at the same time very fascinating. It is astonishing how present all of this history really is. Even without knowing all the historical information (I chose to read about it after my visit), I could really sense the history of this place.

Toliko priča, toliko priča se može pronaći u Mogorjelu. Prvo dom rimskim zemljoposjednicima i dom i radno mjesto njihovim slugama i zemljoradnicima. O čemu li su oni razmišljali? Kakav je bio njihov život? Vjerojatno sličan našem. Zaljubljivali su se, ženili, pokušavali preživjeti i othraniti obitelj....toliko je ljudi tu živjelo u kasnijim stoljećima. Sluge, plemići, vojnici, svećenici pa čak i nomatski Goti (kratko vrijeme). Konačno, tijekom srednjeg vijeka to je bilo zadnje počivalište mnogima. Kakvo je danas? Jako smirene atmosfere, ali u istovremeno jako zanimljivo. Zadivljujuće je u kojoj je mjeri sva ta povijest prisutna. Čak i bez da sam znala povijesne podatke (o kojima sam odabrala čitati kasnije), mogla sam osjetiti povijest ovog mjesta.






That would be all. It has been a while since my last Sights To See, Places To Visit feature.  This time I decided to recommend visiting Mogorjelo, in Bosnia and Herzegovina. If you have been reading closely, you know why. If you haven't, you can always come back when you have more time.... Or even better, don't take my word for it but visit this place and see it with your own eyes....


To bi bilo sve. Prošlo je dosta od moje zadnje Znamenitosti za vidjeti, Mjesta za posjetiti rubrike. Ovaj put sam vam preporučila Mogorjelo u Bosni i Herzegovini. Ukoliko ste pažljivo čitati, znati ćete zašto.  Ako niste,  možete se uvijek vratiti kada budete imali više vremena...ili još bolje posjetite ovo mjesto i vidite sve svojim očima, ne vjerujte meni na riječ.....

Comments

  1. Baš mi je bilo zanimljivo pročitati ovu priču i definitivno korisno jer sam naučila nešto novo :) Djeluje kao sjajan lokalitet, nadam se da ću ga jednom i sama uspjeti posjetiti :)

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    1. odličan lokalitet i najbolje od svega, nigdje nikoga, možeš cijeli dan slikati do mile volje i upijati povijest:)

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  2. very nice pics and place...i like your fur jacket

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  3. Che belle foto Ivana, cosí romantiche! You are welcome to add your fashion and beauty links on my blog!
    November FASHION LINKUP
    November BEAUTY LINKUP

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  4. Perfect look, nice pic

    http://desedayrosa.blogspot.com.es/2015/12/lace-black.html#comment-form

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  5. Ja mislim da mi je ovo tvoj omiljeni post u poslednje vreme. Uživala sam od prve do poslednje reči, razmišljala i sama šta li je, a priča i fotgrafije su me potpuno prenele tamo i to u taj stari period. Znaš i sama da volim takva mesta gde se prepliću istorija i arhitektura, a i arheologija bi bila moja idealno zanimanje da živimo u nekom boljem svetu. Još je pun pogodak kad tako neočekivano otkriješ mesto koje ima toliko toga iza sebe. Vrhunac svega je to što ste oboje bili u pravu. Vaša zajednička intuicija je zapravo bila istina. Neverovatno! Savršen post, zaista, bilo je pravo uživanje. Fotografije su takođe divne, divne. Bravo! ;)

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    1. hvala ti puno. To mi je drago čuti jer sam se oko ovog teksta posebno potrudila. Trebalo mi je nekoliko sati da ga pripremim.

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  6. I'm in love with your fur coat, Ivana! Looks so warm & comfy. I enjoy looking at ancient architecture more, that's why I decided to visit Eastern Europe which is so rich in history. Thanks for the lovely tour, dear! xoxo

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    1. thank you dear. I hope you enjoyed your stay.

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  7. You look gorgeous! Loving all these pictures!
    Have a fabulous weekend darling! ❤️❤️
    much love xx
    http://www.lenparent.com

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  8. So much history in such a nice place! I love reading your posts Ivana, I learn something new all the time!
    You both look wonderful! Wishing you great weekend!

    Tanya
    www.StripesNVibes.com
    BlogLovin

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  10. This is such a cool place :-) I love how stylish your husband is, by the way. Have a lovely weekend!

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  11. Oh wow, this is such a beautiful historic place, Ivana! That's so funny that you were both right; such an intelligent duo :) I hope you have a wonderful weekend and thanks so much for sharing your experience and history behind Mogorjelo!

    XO,

    Jalisa
    www.thestylecontour.com

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  12. I love it when you discover a place by accident and this is a prime example of it. And how lovely that you and your husband are both history lovers! I think it's great when you marry someone like minded and by the sounds of it, you both are.

    Reflection of Sanity | Palmer's Cocoa Butter Care Package Giveaway (Canada ONLY)

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    1. yes, we have very different personalites but supringly enough our taste is almost identical. We always like the same things.

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  13. Che bellissime foto Ivana! E tu sei super elegante!
    Pensa che io abito proprio nella zona archeologica di Roma, dove è pieno di rovine di ville romane e tempietti, sono certa che ti piacerebbe tantissimo!
    Dovresti venire a Roma una volta! ;)
    Baci!
    S
    http://s-fashion-avenue.blogspot.it/

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    1. ho visitato Roma...e spero di tornare a Roma perché è una bellissima città :)

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  14. Posti davvero interessanti e mi piace moltissimo quella gonnellina rosa che indossi! *-*
    Un bacione cara e buon week end!
    www.milleunrossetto.blogspot.it

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  15. What a fabulous post - so much historical storytelling and such a visually stunning place. I love the fact that you were both right too! How often does THAT happen, when after two very different opinions being expressed, it turns out that both are correct? I agree too that visiting places drenched in past civilisations and the lives of many generations of people brings one momentarily to a standstill, thinking about all those echoes of other lives across the centuries.

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    1. thank you Rosalind:) The fact we were both right really made me think.

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  16. Nice pictures babe! The place seems to be very good.
    Have a great day!
    www.reviewwali.com

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  17. I'd love to visit Mogorjelo! Such interesting place to see. I love archaeological sights.
    Ivana even surrounded by ruins, you look gorgeous! Very stylish and elegant look!
    I wish you an amazing weekend sweetie!

    http://fairyland111.blogspot.com/

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    1. thank you Oksana, I'm glad you enjoyed this post.

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  18. A very chic outfit for a beautiful place! You look amazing Ivana! I love your jacket!XOXO
    Jeanne
    http://fashionmusingsdiary.com

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  19. This is lovely place, so much history, its very intresting !!
    I hope in the future I could visit your city and this gorgeous place <3
    You look fab hun,fantastic fur and skirt <3 and your husband looking good too !! Lovely pictures.

    have a wonderful weekend dear !!!
    kisses :*

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    1. thank you darling:) I hope you get to visit this place some day.

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  20. Bellissima!!!You're so lovely dear!!!Great place too...love your skirt :-)
    Kisses
    Ale
    http://alespinkfairytale.blogspot.it/

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  21. beautiful pictures and place!!!

    kisses
    www.aprendiendoaquererme.com

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  22. I love you beautiful pictures :)

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  23. Wow, that place is breathtaking! I found you rpost very interesting, one of my sisters has a Master in History and thanks to her I appreciate history and I'm always interested in it. This location is literally dreamy! Love oyur outfit, too, dear!
    xx

    www.stylebydeb.com

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    1. I have a Master in Literature and it made me appreciate history as well because these two fields have a lot in common.

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  24. What a wonderful accident to happen upon this wonderful place. It's so cool that you and your husband both share a common interest in history and that you both ended up being correct in your theories. I know what you mean about humbled when visiting a historical site. And it sometimes puts me in awe as well. Love your outfit and happy spirit in these pics!

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  25. Wow, you look great! beautiful fur :)

    http://fashionelja.pl

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  26. What a beautiful place! You look great too love the fur and that skirt is very cute :)

    ARedLip&Love

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  27. Nice place and look
    Have a nice weekend =)

    xx L.

    www.lalouuula.com

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  28. Bonito look, la chaqueta es preciosa. Besos

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  29. Awww..what a gorgeous couple
    Btw, I'm loving pictures Ivana :)

    xoxo
    Karen @ http://officiallookbookstore.blogspot.com

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  30. Beautiful place with so much interesting history. I love the pictures. Kisses!

    galerafashion.com

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  31. Animula vagula blandula,
    Hospes comesque corporis

    Ah yes, I remember it well! It was one of the better billets in the Empire in its day. There was a local who would cook us the most bizarre yet flavorful dishes, made with names we could barely pronounce. It was one of the friendly areas we would go to as well, hardly ever any trouble. Many a good nights sleep were lodged and bellies filled in this wonderful locale.

    Equally wonderful those gorgeous legs in tights once more and so many lovely shots of them!! It was number 19 that got me tonight though, dear. So amazing!

    All Things Bright and Lovely

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    1. you should totally write a book set in the past, a nice history novel perhaps?

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  32. Thanks a lot, darling :D

    You look so sofisticated! Love it :D

    NEW WISHLIST POST | Dear Santa…
    InstagramFacebook Oficial PageMiguel Gouveia / Blog Pieces Of Me :D

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  33. You look great dear!

    http://helderschicplace.blogspot.com/2015/12/warm-in-white.html

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  34. Wow! Amazing story behind this place! Thanks for sharing Ivana! I love your jacket btw: But I have already told you that on your Instagram!;)
    Have an amazing weekend Miss!
    ♥♥♥
    Jeanne
    http://fashionmusingsdiary.com

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  35. Hi! I like you blog very much! If you want, we can follow each other so we can keep in touch! :) Kisses from Italy peonynanni.blogspot.it

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  36. Awwwww Mogorjelo! Sad mi se plaće... nije da mi puno treba ovih dana! Posjetili smo ga ovoga ljeta i tu sam jahala konjića. Tih divnih sat vremena <3
    Na ulazu ti piše o mjestu... mi smo isto polemizirali što, gdje i kako i onda smo umrli od smijeha kada smo skužili da na ulazu sve lijepo piše! :) Baš sam uživala u ovome postu... jako jako jako puno, hvala ti!

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  37. How lovely you're both history-enthusiasts, that must make for many interesting trips out together - such as exploring these ruins! I'm always fascinated by how 'open to the elements' ruins can be across Europe, though of course I'm not complaining as they can be thrilling to discover! You look lovely in these photos by the way, such beautiful lighting too :)

    Gabrielle | A Glass Of Ice
    x

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    1. yes, I'm sometimes worried for their preservation but at the same time it is kind of nice having them accessible and not locked up in somewhere.

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  38. Merry Christmas

    http://chicporadnik.blogspot.com/2015/12/merry-christmas-2015.html

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  39. Cudny klimat aż chce się obserwować :D
    http://juliaobi.blogspot.com/

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  40. Loving that coat, dear! :D

    Would you like to follow each other? Let me know*
    Love, Marie Roget

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  41. Wonderful pictures, so nice place!
    in love with your coat, i am definately in love with those coats!!!
    lots of kissess xxx


    somniareaudesemper.blogspot.com.es

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  42. Ivana, I am not sure if I enjoy your outfit or these historical pictures and facts more in this post. You really have gone out of your way to provide not only a quality outfit post, but also provide some excellent educational material as well. So double the respect to you for this post and the content you provide.

    johnbmarine.blogspot.com

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  43. Dear Ivana, this amazing historical place is almost as fascinating as your lovely look! You know, I love you pleatet skirt and I love it, how you wear it with this fur, the black tights and those cool shoes! You look beautiful!

    Wish you a lovely sunday!
    Nadine

    http://nadinecd.blogspot.co.at

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  44. Hehehe, isn't it nice you both turned out to be right? Thank you for this informative historical post, very interesting. I too like to visit such places, they always have such a special atmosphere, not to mention all those ruins look beautiful and enchanting.
    You look charming in that furry coat. Love the photo of you and your husband together.

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  45. Savrsenstvo! Prava si damica u toj krasnoj bundici i retro haljinici. Predeli na fotkama ostavljaju bez daha :)

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  46. Savrsenstvo! Prava si damica u toj krasnoj bundici i retro haljinici. Predeli na fotkama ostavljaju bez daha :)

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  47. I love your "places to visit"-Series. i see always nice and beautiful pics. like today too - nice countryside!!!

    Jennifer

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All your comments mean a lot to me, even the criticism. Naravno da mi puno znači što ste uzeli vrijeme da nešto napišete, pa makar to bila i kritika. Per me le vostre parole sono sempre preziose anche quando si tratta di critiche.

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